The science of waves on rocky coasts remains partly elusive, with a number of empirical descriptions available. Understanding how these theories come together can be important for design of coastal structures, human safety, or projection of coastal change.
I've recently been looking at three different sites with rock platforms. This made me revisit some past studies on Pacific Islands, graduate work on rogue waves in southwest WA, under the direction of Dr Mike Paul, and many hours of fishing as a teenager on the Trigg-Hillarys coast.